Rear Fender Flares
16. Hold the rear M-Max flare in place, and repeat the process of marking where the bolts will go, drilling 3/8” holes, and making sure the flare will fit properly. Déjà vu, right?
18. Mark another line, ¼” above the lines you just marked.
At this point it may help to explain what the plan is. Unlike the front fender, the rear fender consists of two pieces of metal—an inner fender and an outer fender—that are pinch welded together by the factory.
You’re going to separate the two pieces, and will need to re-attach them later on, for stability. That’s why we warned you, there’s going to be some welding.
The method we outline here makes the most of the existing metal, so you don’t have to add sheet metal. You’re going to cut away some of the outer fender, then cut and bend the inner fender up to meet the new edge of the outer fender. Make sense? OK, just keep following the instructions.
Cut vertical slits up into the metal, through the center of each pinch weld. Do NOT slit past your horizontal cut.
Trust us on this one… before welding, we recommend removing your battery terminals, as well as the bench portion of your back seat.
22. Use a hammer to bend and shape the inner fender, giving your tire more clearance. Make sure the edge of the inner fender meets the new edge of the outer fender, so that you can weld the two together.
23. Buff the paint off the new edge of the outer fender, to get a good weld.
25. Cut off any extra metal from the tabs, after they’re welded, and use a grinding wheel to clean up any rough edges or parts of the metal “tabs” sticking out too far. Make sure not to grind through your weld.