W-Max Fender Flare Instructions

Exact Shaping (optional)

At this point, you might see areas where the fit is not exact, and you’d like to improve it. You may need to sand away some of the flare, or build it up using a body filler, such as Bondo©, but we recommend doing this later, after all W-Max Fender Flare pieces are fitted to the Jeep. It will be easier to do all the Bondo at once. More details on this later.

Rear Fender Flares – Door

 

13. Hold the rear door portion of the W-Max flare in place, so that the top of the flare lines up with the outward slant of the body, just below the handle. The bottom of the flare might extend past the bottom of the door. That’s normal. (No cutting required here. Tell your buddy to put down the cutter.)

2013-01-24_11-56-17_32214. Repeat the process of marking where the bolts will go, drilling 3/8” holes, and making sure the flare will fit properly. Be careful not to drill through the door, and into the door jamb. We recommend drilling the holes with the door open.

Leave the flare on, to help properly place the rear body flare.

15.Stop a second and say, “Hey, that was easier than the front!”

Rear Fender Flares – Body

16. On the inside of your Jeep, remove the plastic panels lining the sides of the trunk area.

17. With the door flare still on, hold the rear body portion of the W-Max flare in place. Make sure to leave enough of a gap between the sections that the door will be able to open and close without rubbing.

18. Where the fender flare lays over any plastic trim on the body, use a pencil or marker to mark where the edge of the flare will go.

wj plastic19. Use a box cutter to cut away the plastic, so the flare can sit flush against the body.

20. Repeat the process of marking where the bolts will go, drilling 3/8” holes, and making sure the flare will fit properly. Déjà vu, right?

X-Max-Instructions (6)21. With the rear body fender flare on, use your permanent marker to mark where the underside of the flare reaches on the body. Take the flare off again.

22. Mark a second line, ¼” above the one you just made. This bottom line will be where you cut the body.

At this point it may help to explain what the plan is. Unlike the front fender, the rear fender consists of two pieces of metal—an inner fender and an outer fender—that are pinch welded together by the factory.

You’re going to separate the two pieces, and will need to re-attach them later on, for stability. That’s why we warned you, there’s going to be some welding.

The method we outline here makes the most of the existing metal, so you don’t have to add sheet metal. You’re going to cut away some of the outer fender, then cut and bend the inner fender up to meet the new edge of the outer fender. Make sense? OK, just keep following the instructions.

rear cut gray 23. Cut the outer fender along the upper line you marked. Make sure you only cut through the outer fender wall.

IMG_9011 (2)

When you come to the portion of the fender that extends underneath the door, cutting along the upper line (¼” above the bottom of the flare) may get you close to the edge of the door opening. That’s fine, just stay below the edge.

 

IMG_9016 (2)24. On the lower portion of the fender that is now detached, the pinch welds are still holding part of the outer fender to the inner fender. There is also adhesive between the pinch welds.

Cut vertical slits up into the metal, through the center of each pinch weld. Do NOT slit past your horizontal cut.

X-Max-Instructions (13)25. Now the sections of outer fender are only being held on by adhesive. Use a pair of pliers to pull those pieces off, leaving only the inner fender below the cut.

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