Trust us on this one… before welding, we recommend removing your battery terminals, as well as the bench portion of your back seat.
31. Use a hammer to bend and shape the inner fender, giving your tire more clearance. Make sure the edge of the inner fender meets the new edge of the outer fender, so that you can weld the two together.
32. Buff the paint off the new edge of the outer fender, to get a good weld.
34. Cut off any extra metal from the tabs, after they’re welded, and use a grinding wheel to clean up any rough edges or parts of the metal “tabs” sticking out too far. Make sure not to grind through your weld.
Exact Shaping (optional)
OK, now is the time to sand or Bondo the flares, if you want to get the most exact fit.
35. Use a sanding block or electric sander to gradually sand away the fiberglass on the flare, where needed.
36. If you want to fill in a gap between the flare and the body, remove the X-Max Fender Flare, and use masking tape to cover the body behind the part of the flare where you’re working. Make sure the tape follows the shape of the body exactly
37. Replace the flare, and have your buddy hold it in place (or use a couple of the nuts) while you fill in the gap with body filler. Hold in place until the filler is rigid, and the pull the flare away from the tape. The body filler should stick to the fiberglass on the flare, but pull away from the masking tape without much difficulty.
38.Sand any uneven spots on the body filler with a sanding block, to get a smooth surface and smooth edges. Remove the masking tape from the Jeep.
Once the shaping is done, we recommend you leave the flares off until they’re painted, but whenever it is you bolt them on, DO NOT over-tighten the nuts!